From Weak to Strong: An Expert Gymnast’s Training Guide
Some of the most famous climbers in the world, such as Lynn Hill, came from gymnastics backgrounds. When I started climbing, I had a high degree of bodyweight strength and conditioning from my time in gymnastics and parkour.
(My approach is detailed in my book “Overcoming Gravity, 2nd Edition.”)
For example, I’ve always been able to do at least 1–4 one-arm chin-ups; dips with at least 90+ pounds for 5 reps; weighted (50% bodyweight) pistols; at least 1–3+ freestanding handstand push-ups; 10+ weighted hanging leg raises, and so on.
You might think this would instantly translate to success on the rock. In fact, I found that my gymnastics background was initially a hindrance, at least during those first few years, because I could muscle through climbs without really learning much technique. That bodyweight strength background got me decently far, however, but I soon stalled out in the V8-10 range.
This led .... Continue Reading at Evening Sends